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UNEARTHING THE PAST SINCE 1900

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First Visit to a Djerbian Jewish Home—Lasting Impressions

By Safouane Tlili | Senior Technician for Carthagina and Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ Implementing Partner
[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][mk_divider thickness=”1″ margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”10″][vc_wp_text]As a local historian, I found traces of Jewish heritage in buildings, and their fingerprints still mark many old neighborhoods and even a few mosques—some of which I have personally examined and documented (Documenting Pluralistic Cultural Heritage in Djerba, Tunisia). Jewish artisans were well-known for their skill in blacksmithing and repairing plows, in tin smithing, in carpentry, in tanning, in the animal trade, and so on.

But my view changed, or let’s say it expanded, when I had the opportunity to interact directly and personally with some of my Jewish neighbors through the Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ project on documenting the cultural heritage of ethnic and religious minorities in Tunisia. Over the past year, I delved deeper into knowing the Jews from Djerba with our documentation work. Most significantly, my personal knowledge grew with each café conversation that I had with the two young men, Benyahou Hadad and Golan Wazan. The three of us organized an exhibition of photographs of religious and worship places in Djerba. Each one of us immortalized worship places from our religion from our own point of view. Our shared project culminated with an exhibit where we displayed photos that combined images of Ibadi mosques, Jewish synagogues, and Christian churches.[/vc_wp_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1689599343683{padding-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][vc_single_image image=”90748″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1689600057783{margin-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”10″][vc_wp_text]

Safouane Tlili
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Exhibition of photos of Ibadi and Jewish religious heritage sites
[/vc_wp_text][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_wp_text]As a native Djerbian, I have known Jewish people my entire life, and I have known of numerous synagogues in our island home. Yet, my interaction with the Jews of the of Djerba has been only minimal through some economic transactions.

I was acquainted with some Jewish neighbors from their well-known shops in Souk Al-Ruba in Houmt Souk, where I went whenever I needed to buy the most beautiful and oldest pieces of Tunisian jewelry. These skilled artisans can create any kind of jewelry that one might ever want. More broadly, I was aware of professions that Jewish people excelled within Tunisia from accounts given by the elders of my community. Historical photographs also provided me with glimpses of Jewish heritage.[/vc_wp_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner css=”.vc_custom_1689599343683{padding-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][vc_single_image image=”91071″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1690923432470{margin-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”10″][vc_wp_text]

Benyahou Hadad, Safouane Tlili, and Golan Wazan
[/vc_wp_text][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_wp_text]As a local historian, I found traces of Jewish heritage in buildings, and their fingerprints still mark many old neighborhoods and even a few mosques—some of which I have personally examined and documented (Documenting Pluralistic Cultural Heritage in Djerba, Tunisia). Jewish artisans were well-known for their skill in blacksmithing and repairing plows, in tin smithing, in carpentry, in tanning, in the animal trade, and so on.

But my view changed, or let’s say it expanded, when I had the opportunity to interact directly and personally with some of my Jewish neighbors through the Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ project on documenting the cultural heritage of ethnic and religious minorities in Tunisia. Over the past year, I delved deeper into knowing the Jews from Djerba with our documentation work. Most significantly, my personal knowledge grew with each café conversation that I had with the two young men, Benyahou Hadad and Golan Wazan. The three of us organized an exhibition of photographs of religious and worship places in Djerba. Each one of us immortalized worship places from our religion from our own point of view. Our shared project culminated with an exhibit where we displayed photos that combined images of Ibadi mosques, Jewish synagogues, and Christian churches.[/vc_wp_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner css=”.vc_custom_1689599343683{padding-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][vc_single_image image=”90766″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1689605428993{margin-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”10″][vc_wp_text]

Festival at the Ghriba Synagogue
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Inside the Ghriba Synagogue during the pilgrimage
[/vc_wp_text][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_wp_text]Through this project, we did more than document heritage and take photographs. I was constantly asking Benyahou and Golan about their ways of living, eating, clothing, joys, and teachings of their religion. We discussed what is forbidden and what is lawful. We shared what we had in common, and where there are differences between us. With every new meeting, I was gaining information that made me eager to learn more. I think that they did the same.

I know all the regions of the island and have visited and documented every mosque and church on Djerba. Yet, during this period of intense documentation, my knowledge of Jewish worship sites was incomplete. Related, I had never been invited or permitted to take part in the pilgrimage associated with the Lag B’Omer Festival that is held annually at the Ghriba Synagogue. This year, thanks to the Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ documentation project, I (a native Djerbian) lived the pilgrimage experience for the first time in my life.
[/vc_wp_text][vc_wp_text]In the Ghriba synagogue, I enjoyed an evening participating in the festive atmosphere. There, my ears filled with Tunisian songs and chants. And I enjoyed tasting the most delicious food and sweets. I looked at the happy faces that were beaming and captured their most beautiful pictures with my camera lens. I also had the pleasure of talking with visitors from all over the world. It was an exciting experience, in which I truly touched by the values of richness, diversity, and coexistence that abound on the island of Djerba. Where was all this wealth hidden, and why had I never known of its existence?[/vc_wp_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1689599343683{padding-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][vc_single_image image=”90769″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1689605590497{margin-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”10″][vc_wp_text]

Profs. Carol and Eric Meyers in front of the Ghirba Synagogue
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Golan Wazan, Prof. Abraham Sofaer, and Benyahou Hadad
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Benyahou Hadad speaking with Prof. Eric Meyers at a synagogue in Houmt Souk, Djerba
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Synagogue in Houmt Souk, Djerba, Tunisia
[/vc_wp_text][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_wp_text]But the opportunity did not end with the official Ghriba pilgrimage, as the interactions continued the next day. I joined an Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ delegation from the United States and partners from all over Tunisia, who were able to visit a Jewish family in their home—the first opportunity in my life to do so. This encounter lasted for about two hours in which Jewish men, women, and youth from Djerba spoke with Jews from other parts of the world, with the Amazighs of Djerba and Douiret, with the Ibadis, and with Âé¶¹Ö±²¥ implementers from the Sahel (Burkina Faso and Niger).

To have minorities talking with each other in the same place seldom happens!! It was an adventure, and an amazing and rich discovery. After the home visit, my Jewish neighbors took us to visit a few synagogues and schools in their neighborhood, where they explained everything to us in full detail and with a sincere and open heart.[/vc_wp_text][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner css=”.vc_custom_1689599343683{padding-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][vc_single_image image=”90812″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1689686569559{margin-right: 10px !important;}”][mk_padding_divider size=”10″][vc_wp_text]

Tunisian women participate in a discussion in Djerban home.
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Photograph of Synagogue Trabelsi at exhibition of photos of Ibadi and Jewish religious heritage sites
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Djerba, the land of peace by Yousra Chouchene (featured in the photo). Ms. Chouchene painted this mural in the hope that it will remind all that Djerba will remain a land of peace, tolerance, love, and giving forever. The mural also was featured on the program cover for the (June 19-20, 2023).
[/vc_wp_text][mk_padding_divider size=”20″][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_wp_text]An experience like this is not common, but I sincerely hope that it will happen again because of its importance in spreading noble and humane values, in accepting people from difference backgrounds and experiences, and in coexisting in peace and security.

I hope I will have the chance to host my Jewish neighbors in my home, so I could resume our communication and acquaintance sessions.
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Awatef Bahroun (The Heritage Laboratory of Manouba University) giving Andy Vaughn (Âé¶¹Ö±²¥) a mat that she made to celebrate the day and Âé¶¹Ö±²¥’s partnership
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